Alcohol is toxic to man because it is absorbed rapidly within the body directly into the blood stream but is converted only slowly to carbon dioxide and water. The reported rates of conversion vary from 3.5 to 15 cc/hour. If alcohol is absorbed at a faster rate than the rate at which it is metabolised (converted), the alcohol content of the body fluids builds up and acts as a depressant on the central nervous system. The effect is relaxing rather than stimulating.

A concentration of about 0.2% results in moderate (high) intoxication;0.3% results in severe (stoned) intoxication; and 0.4% in deep anaesthesia which may be fatal.

Theoretically, a large man can drink more than a small man because the effects of alcohol are directly proportional to the per cent of alcohol present in the body. The key is the metabolic rate of each person, not entirely his weight or size. If your body can convert alcohol to harmless carbon dioxide and water faster than the next man, you can "hold" more alcohol. However, emotional and physical factors tend to change the metabolic rate from day to day and even from hour to hour so that "no one" can say with any certainty that it takes a specific number of drinks to make him drunk.

Alcohol is the most efficient and practical relaxer of the driving force in the brain. We do not advocate that anyone ever drink for the KICK - drinking should only be done for pleasure, relaxation and the release to which the beverage contributes; it should be made a part of the good life.

Just as prohibition is bad, so is excess, and in no case is this truer than in the use of alcoholic beverages. There is no better word of advice on this point than that which Lord Chesterfield gave to his son, in the letter dated London, March 27, 1747.

"Were I to begin the world again with the experience I now have of it , I would lead a life of real, not imaginary pleasures. I would enjoy the pleasures of the table, and of wine; but stop short of the pains inseparably annexed to an excess of either."

The usual commercial liquor contains 95% ethyl alcohol by volume and is called 190 U.S. proof spirit. U.S. proof is two times the per cent alcohol by volume at 60⁰F. For example,100 proof alcohol is 50% alcohol by volume (British proof spirit is 57.1% alcohol by volume).

Specially designated hydrometers are used to determine the alcoholic strength of watery solutions. They are graduated to indicate "0" for no alcohol, "100" for 50% alcohol, and "200" for absolute or 100% alcohol by volume at the standard temperature of 60⁰F.

When you have distilled a volume of high proof alcohol, it is necessary to dilute (cut) it to the desired commercial strength. Do this simply by adding pure, clean water. If you want to exclude the flavour peculiar to some tap waters, then use distilled water. Distil your own water by running ordinary tap water through your still at a temperature in excess of 212⁰F, which is the boiling temperature of water.

To accurately cut the alcohol to a specific proof number, you need a thermometer, as well as a hydrometer. Slowly add water at 60⁰F. to the alcohol, also at 60⁰F., and check the proof number with the hydrometer as you proceed.

When yeast, a living fungi, grows in sugary solutions in the virtual absence of air, most of the sugar is converted into ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide gas. The alcohol and carbon dioxide formed almost equals, in total weight and in quantity of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, the sugar consumed.

Common baker's yeast is a mass of tiny plants akin to bacteria that reproduce by budding. The living bodies of the yeast produce enzymes (sucrose and zymase) which, in turn, break up sugar (or starch) into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The chemical reaction is expressed as:

C₁₂H₂₂O₁₁ + H₂O -------> C₆H₁₂0₆ + C₆H₁₂0₆

Sucrose

Sucrose or +H₂O --------> Glucose and frucrose

Table Sugar Yeast or simple sugars

C₆H₁₂0₆ --------> 2 C₂H₅CH + 2 CO₂

Zymese

Glucose or --------> Ethyl + Carbon

Frucrose Yeast Alcohol Dioxide gas

The formation of ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide uses up almost 95% of the sugar present and are the chief products of fermentation. However, the remaining 5% of the sugar contributes to a simultaneous formation of several by-products (impurities) in very small proportions, such as glycerol, volatile acids, fusel oils or higher alcohol ethers, aldehydes and esters. It is these substances that give ethyl alcohol with its many peculiar flavours, colour and the seemingly ever-present "hangover". More about this quality under the heading of distillation.

Incidentally, poisonous methyl alcohol is not produced by the fermentation of pure sugar. It is manufactured by the destructive distillation of wood or cellulose, hence it is called 'wood alcohol'. The addition of fruit juices and fruit itself, which contain some starch, into the fermentation of pure sugar, as in home wine making, may yield some methyl alcohol but only in trace amounts. The pectin or starch compounds contained in fruits are generally insufficient to yield methyl alcohol of significant quantities, but from the view of eliminating hangover effect, any methyl alcohol is undesirable. Among the commercial liquors, brandy has the highest per cent of methyl alcohol.

The several general conditions required for efficient fermentation of a satisfactory alcoholic yield are a favourable temperature, specific proportions of sugar, water and yeast, food for the yeast, inhibition of vinegar formation and sufficient time. However sugar, water and yeast will produce an adequate yield of alcohol.

Temperature: High temperature kills the yeast plants whereas low temperatures decrease their rate of activity. The higher the temperature, the faster the rate of fermentation, but the lower the alcoholic yield. The optimum temperature is 78⁰F. Never exceed 90⁰F.

Sugar and water: The optimum ratio of sugar to water is 2 pounds to 1 gallon.

Yeast and time: The usual proportion of yeast is 1 cup to 5 gallons of water. At this ratio, other conditions being optimum the yeast will, in plus or minus 14 days, have manufactured enough ethyl alcohol to kill themselves and stop fermentation. Since the yeast will reproduce rapidly in sweet solution, using less than one cup of yeast is satisfactory; however, active fermentation will take a little longer to get going. Nevertheless, in plus or minus 14 days as the presence of alcohol increases, fermentation will stop. Let experience be your guide.

Yeast Food: Small amounts of inorganic salts, such as nitrogen, phosphate and potassium may be added to promote vigorous growth of the yeast plants. Household "Calgon Water Softener" is a safe and readily available food; or, use ammonium phosphate dibasic. The proportion is 1 level teaspoon of Calgon to 5 gallons of water.

Vinegar Inhibition: The solution of mash or wine upon exposure to oxygen will tend to promote the growth of another fungi which will manufacture vinegar. The addition of sulphuric acid to increase acidity of the solution to a pH of 4 or 5, or simply preventing prolonged exposure to oxygen (air) will prevent its growth. Cap your fermenter during fermentation and after. Caution: Carbon dioxide gas pressure will develop during fermentation, so you must provide for its constant release. See Appendix F, Diagram A for an easy solution.

When fermentation is complete, the mash or wine will be turbid and must be allowed to settle. The sediment contains precipitated organic matter, yeast bodies and potassium tartarate. The settling may take several days or a week; or even months in the case of wine. Chilling the fermented mash and/or filtering will shorten the time it requires to sell. Siphon or decant the clear solution and discard the sediment. Try not to aerate the mash or wine unnecessarily thereby encouraging the formation of vinegar.

The resulting mash or wine now will be no more than 16% and not usually less than 8% ethyl alcohol by volume. Thus, it is a very dilute alcohol solution akin to most wines which must be concentrated by distillation if you are to have a high proof spirit. See Appendix E for the basic mash recipe.

Distillation is simply boiling a mixture to separate the more volatile (having the lowest boiling point) from the less volatile liquid, and then cooling and condensing the resulting vapour to produce a more nearly pure liquid. The non-volatile impurities will remain in the residue, which in this case is discarded.

To illustrate, if you had a mixture of water and glycerine, the water will begin to turn to steam (vaporise) long before the glycerine gets hot enough to vaporise appreciably. By keeping the temperature high enough to vaporise the water, but not high enough to appreciably vaporise the glycerine, you can collect and condense the water vapour, leaving most of the glycerine behind.

Direct distillation for alcohol can yield at best only the constant boiling mixture of alcohol and water (172.7⁰F.) containing 97.2% alcohol by volume (194.4 proof) because this mixture boils 0.18⁰F. LOWER than pure alcohol (172.9⁰F.); hence, do not expect more than 190 proof alcohol from your home still.

If ethyl alcohol is redistilled several times to 170 proof or better it will be a neutral spirit and all but free of any hangover producing components, such as the volatile acids, fusel oils, ethers, aldehydes and esters mentioned under the heading of fermentation. Commercial whiskey, i.e., is distilled out at a much lower proof specifically to retain these components pulled from the grain of which it was made to impart a desired flavour to the liquor. It is because of these components by-products (impurities) that you get a hangover; and, those of us who have tried both commercial liquor and 'Sadiki Juice' can swear to the veracity of this statement. The ethyl alcohol produced as described in this booklet and flavoured to make or duplicate the liquor you want is the best you will ever drink.

The simplest distillation apparatus, often used in High School chemistry laboratories, and employing Justin von Liebig's single surface condenser, consists of five basic parts as does any still; first, a heat source; second, a boiler to heat the mash; third, a thermometer to observe the vapour temperature; fourth, a condenser to cool and condense the vapor; and fifth, a receiver to collect the distillate. See Appendix F, Diagram B.

The usual home "pot" still is just a variation of ;the glass apparatus described above, but far safer. The pot should be made of stainless steel throughout to prevent corrosion by the hot acids produced during distillation. All fittings must be vapour tight to prevent leakage of alcohol or its vapours and possible explosion and fire. The tubing extending from the pot can be of almost any metal, but copper is the most practical. The condenser should be made of metal and not glass. It is a cylindrical metal box with copper tubing coiled up inside.

The best heat source is an electric stove. A gas stove or an open flame of any type are quite dangerous due to the ever present alcohol vapour. Immersion heaters are satisfactory, but they court disaster if through corrosion they become exposed and ignite the alcohol or its vapours.

The simple pot still requires three or four consecutive time-consuming distillations (runs) to produce a wholly pure, hangover proof distillate. See Appendix F, Diagram C.

There is infinite variety in design and materials in pot stills, in the alcoholic content of mashes, in thermometers, in heat sources, and in condensing apparatus; hence you must expect variation in the initial boiling temperatures. The following is a guide. As you gain experience, you will learn to judge your own temperature ranges depending upon the equipment you have.

First Run: (Start collecting at 170 to 180 through 205⁰F. then stop.)

Gradually heat the 5 gallons (or more) of clear mash in the pot and expect the first condensate to begin collecting in the receiver at about 170 to 180⁰F. Collect all that comes over in this first run. About 2 hours later when 205⁰.F is reached, stop collecting. You should have about 1.25 gallons of distillate which will be about 40 to 60% water and by-products. Throw away the residue in the pot, rinse it out and flush out any solids that may have boiled over into your tubing.

Caution: Too high heat will cause the mash to foam or to boil over through the tubing, clouding the distillate and possibly clogging the tubing. The more slowly you heat, the less impurities will go over and the better your product will be. However, this is not too important in batch distillation.

Second Run: (Start collecting at 170 to 180 through 204⁰F. then stop.)

Gradually heat the first run distillate in the pot and begin collecting the condensate in the receiver between 170 and 180⁰F. In about an hour when 204⁰F. is reached, stop collecting. You should have about 3/4 gallon of 70% alcohol plus by-products. Discard the residue from the pot as before.

Caution: Your 70% alcohol is 140 proof and has a flash point of 70⁰F. The product is now very flammable!

Third Run: (Start collecting at 170 to 172 through 184⁰F, then stop.)

Gradually heat the second run stock in the pot. Action is fast. The temperature moves rapidly to about 170⁰F. Discard whatever distillate comes over before 170⁰F. or that which comes over before the trickle steadies into a solid stream. Stop collecting at about 184⁰F. in about 45 minutes. You should have about 1/2 gallon of about 85% alcohol. Throw away any residue in the pot.

Caution: Your distillate is about 170 proof and extremely flammable. If you make one more run, purifying the product even more, you will have hangover -proof alcohol.

Fourth Run: (Start collecting at 170 through 174⁰F. then stop)

Gradually heat third run stock in the pot. The temperature will rise to 170⁰F. very rapidly and settle down at about 172⁰F. As before, discard what comes over before 170⁰F. and keep what comes over between 172 and 174⁰F.. It should take about 1/2 hour and you will have about 1/2 gallon of 90 - 95% almost pure, ethyl alcohol.

The Reflux or Fractional Distillation Still is a refinement of the preceding "pot" still but is more efficient and more complex in design; therefore, it produces in one run what the above stills may require three runs to do. A tubular metal reflux column packed with glass marbles, stainless steel wool, or a system of baffles and sieves is attached just above the pot. The column or tower should be combined with a top temperature control reflux condenser at its top. See Appendix F, Diagram D.

In fractional distillation the point is to achieve the closest possible contact between rising vapour and descending condensed liquid within the reflux column, and thus permit only the most volatile vapour to continue through to the after condenser while returning the less volatile vapour as a liquid toward the pot. The purification of the more volatile vapour by such counter-current streams of vapour and liquid is known as rectification and the descending liquid is known as reflux; hence the name reflux column. This system may yield a first run of about 170 to 180 proof, double that of the first run of the simple pot still.

The efficiency of the reflux system depends upon the length and diameter of the reflux column. A column of about 6" high and 3" across may require two runs; whereas a column 18" high and 4" across may require only one run to produce 170 to 180 proof alcohol. Heat control is accurate because of the controlled water flow through the reflux condenser in the top of the column. Also, you can control the temperature by raising or reducing the heat source, as in the simple pot still, but it is not so critical.

Keep the top temperature of the column between 172 and 176⁰F For optimum results. One run should be sufficient, and yield pure spirits, but if yeast flavour or odour is present, run the distillate a second time at the same temperature range. Two runs are advisable unless you have a very efficient reflux column.

The Sneaky Home Still, invented out of necessity, is a compact system which yields an acceptable product in one run, is mechanically simple, and can be stored in a dresser drawer. A 550 watt soldering iron is fitted with copper tubing of various lengths and diameters and during a constant flow process may produce between 90 and 115 proof alcohol depending on the temperature at which it is operated. The adjustment of flow rate is most important in this system because it regulates the operating temperature. An operating temperature of 195⁰F. appears optimum and should yield about 4 quarts of 100 proof alcohol from 5 gallons of mash. The running time varies between 4 to 6 hours. A lower temperature of 193⁰F. will yield less alcohol but at a higher proof, about 115, and consequently more pure. After the unit is initially filled so overflow begins, pinch off the flow until an initial rise in temperature is indicated, then begin adjustment of flow rate. Overflow is a slow drip. See Appendix F, Diagram E.

NOTE: Here are the formulae to convert Fahrenheit and Centigrade temperatures:

Fahrenheit = Centigrade x 9/5 + 32

Centigrade = Fahrenheit - 32 x 5/9

Cleaning the Still

Immediately after each distillation, while the metal is yet warm, thoroughly rinse, and with a cloth wipe out your stillFlush out all tubing with clear water. If washing is indicated, use a weak detergent solution but NOT soap. Soap may impart an undesirable odour.

In addition, an occasional rinse and flushing with a salt and vinegar solution will keep the still clean and "sweet" (dissolve 1/2 cup of salt with 16 ounces of vinegar - rinse thoroughly with water).

Caution

You are cautioned against storing 15% or better alcohol, even temporarily, in plastic containers. There are many types of plastic and unfortunately some of them will dissolve in alcohol.

Recognize the fact that when distilling alcohol we might just as well be distilling gasoline! From a fire and explosion hazard point of view, alcohol is almost as dangerous as gasoline and what nut would cook gasoline on his stove? The mash is not flammable; however, the first and successive run distillates certainly are. The flash points or the temperatures above, which alcohols will ignite and below which they will not ignite, are:

51⁰F For 100% or 200 proof ethyl alcohol (pure)

57⁰F. for 95% or 190 proof ethyl alcohol (uncut)

78⁰F. for 45% or 90 proof ethyl alcohol (Bourbon)

When you are distilling the temperatures of the alcohol will be well above these flash point temperatures, so be careful! Memorise the following Common Sense rules:

• Do not smoke while running a still.
• Do not use an open flame if you can avoid it.
• Ensure excellent ventilation. Alcohol vapour diffuses readily in air and will explode very easily with a spark or a flame.
• Avoid using glass containers. Use metal or plastic only.
• Never fill a pot while it is on the stove or near any heat source. Alcohol spilled on an electric stove burner may explode.
• Never leave a still unattended. Hose lines may fail or the receiver may overflow spreading dangerous vapours.
• Keep the receiver and its vapours low, on the floor, away from the heat source. Use a small neck receiver; for, if a fire starts it will burn at the small neck opening, which is easily extinguished. A damp cloth wrapped loosely around the tubing where it enters the receiver will help keep the vapours in the receiver.
• Never store uncut alcohol unless it is in the refrigerator. It is a potential bomb at room temperature!
• Be sure all fittings are tight thus avoiding vapour leaks in your still. If a leak develops, stop all sources of heat, then fix it.
• Have a CO2 (Carbon Dioxide) fire extinguisher on hand and know how to use it.

If you have the opportunity to study the commercial methods of flavoring and coloring liquors, you will be startled at the simplicity of the process and the similarity to what you will do to make your own. Any desired fruit, herb, wood, seed, or its extracted essence is steeped or added to the fermenting mash, or to the alcohol after distillation. Not only flavor, but especially color is created with various additives.

Aging whiskey in wood barrels, for example, imparts the characteristic golden brown color as well as improving the character of the liquor. Rum derives its golden hues from the addition of caramel. Creme de Menthe is green because vegetable coloring has been added.

When spirits are distilled out at 170 proof or better, it would be hard for any but the experienced distillers to differentiate among the distillates of grain, fruit, or can; it is said the alcohol is without "character". As we stated before, when the spirit is distilled out at a lower proof, 160 or less, it contains more by-products, and has more "character". Such a spirit, upon ageing in wood, undergoes changes which develop its flavour and character. Once it is placed in glass and sealed against the air, no more change will take place. But as long as it is in wood, there is constant change, brought about by the oxidizing effect of the air on the alcohol through the pores of the wood. However, it stands to reason that alcohol in a partly filled bottle is in contact with air and evaporation and oxidation will continue there, as well as in wood. The oxidation causes the esters and acids to increase materially, the aldehydes slowly, the fusel oils to remain the same, and a certain loss of alcohol to take place. The spirit will absorb some tannin and other coloring material from the wood, and become less harsh, and in a sense, a bit sweeter than it was originally.

You can do the same thing by adding an amount of selected wood chips to your own spirits and letting it age in a partly filled bottle.

The recipes listed in Appendix E are practical and proven. With imagination and experimentation you will discover how to make any liquor you wish. Remember, proof strength is as much a part of certain liquor as is its color and flavor, hence check the proof of the real liquor and check appendices B, C, and D on strength of alcoholic beverages when you make your own.

Probably the best source to buy supplies to prepare liquors is from your local grocery store. Most sophisticated items, such as specific flavorings, barrels, wood chips, recipes, etc., can be obtained by writing to:

P. Fioretti & Co. 1470 Lexington Ave, New York, NY 10028

Distilled Grains

Whiskies Str. Whiskey

Spirit Whiskey

Whiskey Blds

Scotch

Irish

Canadian

Vodka Zubrovka

Gins

English

Holland

Fruit Gins

Akavit Light Bodied Cuban

P.Rican

Haitian

Phillipines

Sugar Rums Jamaican

Cane Full Bodied Demerara

Molasses Barbados

New England

Cactus

Tequila Aromatic Batavia Arak

Fruits Brandies Grape Cognac

Armagnac

Sp.Brandy

Cal.Brandy

Gr.Brandy

Apple Calvados

Apple Jack

Cherry Kirsch

Ch.Brandy

Plum Slivovitz

Quetsch

Grapes Wines Natural

Sparkling

Fortified

Aromatized

Other Fruit Cider

Berry

Fermented Grains Beer

Ale

Stout

Porter

Sake

Cactus Pulque

Compounded Liqueurs and Cordials Fruit steeped in Brandy (infusion)

Fruit Mash (distilled)

Neutral spirits,

Fruit extracts,

and Vegetable coloring

Bitters Aromatic

Fruit

Strength and Source of Fermented Alcoholic Beverages

Type of Beverage - Per Cent Alcohol

Wines (fermented juices of various fruits, notable grapes) 14% or less

Natural Wines (still)

Clarets (Bordeaux), red or white, table, sweet or dry

Graves, white, table, dry

Sauternes, white, table, desert, sweet

Burgandies, red or white, table, dry

Moselles, white, table, dry

Rhones, red or white, table, dry

Alsatian (Rhine), white, table, dry

Riesling, white, table, dry

Tokay, white, table, dry

Chianti, red, table, dry

Sparkling Wines (Effervescent) 14% or less

Champagne, white, table or desert, dry or sweet

Sparkling Burgandy, red or white, table, med.sweet

Sparkling Asti Spumante, white, table, sweet

Sparkling Moselle, white, table, sweet

Fortified Wines (Brandy added) 16 to 23%

Sherry, amber, appetizer, dry or sweet

Port, golden or red, desert, sweet

Madeira, golden, desert, dry or sweet

Marsala, brown, desert, sweet

Muscatel, golden, desert, sweet

Tokay, red, desert, sweet

Aromatized Wines (Brandy added) 15 to 20%

Italian Vermouth, brown, appetizer, sweet or dry

French Vermouth, white, appetizer, dry

Dubonnet, red, appetizer, sweet

Montilla, straw, appetizer, dry

Quinquina, red or white, appetizer, sweet-bitter

Other Wines 2 to 8%

Cider (Sidra), sparkling, apple wine, straw, sweet

Perry, sparkling pear wine, straw, sweet

Blackberry, Peach, Apricot, Cherry, Strawberry Wine, etc.

Pulque, Agave Cactus wine, resembling sour milk

Beers 1.2 to16%

Beer (lager), pale, dry 4%

Ale, pale to dark, bittersweet 6%

Stout, a dark ale, strong malt flavor, bitter 6%

Porter, like stout but not as strong, dark, bitter 6%

Sake, rice beer, white, dry, still 1 to 16%

Strength and Source of Distilled Alcoholic Beverages

Type of Beverage - US Proof % Alcohol

Whiskies² (distilled at 160 proof from fermented mash of various cereal grains) 80⁰ to 110⁰ / 40% to 55%

Straight Whiskies

Rye (made from nlt 51% rye grain)

Bourbon or Corn (from nlt 51% corn grain)

Wheat (from 51% wheat grain)

Malt (from nlt 51% malted barley or rye)

Blended Whiskies

Any straight whiskey 50% blended with neutral spirits; or blended with another straight whiskey

Scotch, A blend of straight Scotch whiskies from peat-smoked malted barley

Irish, A blend of straight Irish whiskies from barley, oats, wheat, and rye

Canadian, A blend of straight Canadian whiskies from rye grain

²Note: 'Bottled in Bond' is not a type of whiskey or a guarantee of quality. It is a tax device to allow a distiller to bottle straight whiskey (provided it is 4 years old) without paying Federal Tax. He must pay the Federal Tax immediately upon removing the whiskey from the bonded warehouse for sale.

Vodkas (distilled at 150 proof from fermented mash or wheat and a little malt, it is not flavored, nor aged; white, dry) 90⁰ to 115⁰ 45% to 57%

Subrovka, A vodka flavored with Zubrovka Grass, slightly bitter, dry

Gins (distilled at 190 proof from cereal grains, mostly corn, sweetened or not, flavored with juniper berries, almonds, cardamom, coriander or licorice; never aged) 86⁰/ 43%

London Dry, white, dry

Old Tom, white, medium sweet

Hollands, white, dry, distilled out at 98 proof

Fruit Gins, flavored with fruit extracts

Strength and Source of Compounded Alcoholic Beverages

Type of Beverage - US Proof -% Alcohol

Rums (distilled at 160 proof from fermented sugar cane molasses, colored with caramel, flavoured with cognac and fruit) 86⁰ to 158⁰/ 43% to 79%

Cuban, light or dark, dry or sweet

Demerera, dark, sweet

Jamaica, gold, sweet

Batavia Arak, dry, brandy-like

Other Spirits

Tequila (distilled from pulque, an agave cactus wine, pale, dry)

Aquavitae (distilled at 190 proof from grain potatoes, flavored with caraway seed and other herbs; it is not aged, white) 90⁰ 45%

Brandies (Distilled at 140 proof from wine or fermented mash of fruit juices) 96⁰ to 108⁰ 48% to 54%

Cognac, brown, dry 84⁰ 42%

Armagnac, brown, dry

Spanish Brandy, brown, medium dry

American Brandy, light gold, oak flavor

Greek Brandy, dark, sweet, resinous flavor

Calvados (Apple Jack), brown, dry 100⁰ 50%

Kirsch (Cherry Brandy), white, dry, bitter 96⁰ 48% almond flavor

Slivovitz (Plum Brandy), brown, dry

Quetsch (Plum Brandy, brown, dry

Strength and Source of Compounded Alcoholic Beverages

US Proof -% Alcohol

Liqueurs and Cordials (various fruits steeped in brandy [infusion] which may or may not be redistilled; or neutral spirits, sweetened, then flavored with extracts of fruits, herbs, or spices, artificially colored)36⁰ to 110⁰/ 18% to 55%

Benedictine, secret blend of herbs, plants, peels, etc., golden, spicy, sweet 60⁰/ 30%

Chartreuse, secret blend, yellow green, spicy, sweet 86⁰ 43%

Cherry Heering 110⁰ 55%

Cordial Medoc, blend of brandy, curacao, cacao

Cointreau, a brand of Triple Sec

Drambuie, a secret blend of Scotch Whiskey and honey, golden, spicy sweet Kummel, caraway and cumin seed. 60⁰ to 80⁰/30% to 40%

Forbidden Fruit, Shaidock grapefruit and brandy, orange color, sweet

Liqueur d'Or, lemon peel, herbs, plants 86⁰ 43%

Van der Hum, tangerines (mandarins) 70⁰ 35%

Anisette, aniseed, white 54⁰ 27%

Apricot Liqueur 60⁰ 30%

Arrack Punsch, simple syrup, herbs and Matava

Arak  Blackberry Liqueur,dark red, sweet 86⁰ 43%

Cherry Liqueur, black cherry, red, sweet 60⁰ 30%

Creme de Ananas, pineapple 60⁰ 30%

Creme de Cacao, chocolate, vanilla 60⁰ 30%

Creme de Cassis, blackcurrants,red 36⁰ 18%

Creme de Fraises, strawberries 60⁰ 30%

Creme de Menthe, peppermint 60⁰ 30%

Creme de Noyaus, bitter almond

Curacao, green orange peel 60⁰ 30%

Sloe Gin, wild plum, red, sweet

Triple Sec, a white Curacao, sweet 60⁰30%

Peach Liqueur 60⁰ 30%

Maraschino, wild cherry, white 60⁰ 30%

Creme de Cafe (Kahlua),coffee

Absinthe, aromatic plants and brandy, yellow- 136⁰ 68%

green; licorice

Type of Beverage US Proof %Alcohol

Bitters (neutral spirits infused or redistilled with plants, seeds, barks, roots, and fruits) 80⁰ or less (40%)

Angostura, dark, bitter

Abbott's Aged Bitters, dark, bitter

Orange Bitters, dried Seville orange peel

Recipes

Units of Measure

• 1 ounce / 2 tablespoons
• 1.5 ounces / 3 table spoons / 1 jigger
• 8 ounces / 1 cup
• 16 ounces / 2 cups / 1 pint
• 32 ounces / 2 pints / 1 quart
• 8 pints / 4 quarts / 1 gallon
• 25 ounces / 3 1/4 cups / 1 fifth (4/5 of a quart)

SPIRITS

Basic Mash (for distilling neutral spirits)

In 5 gallons of ordinary tap water dissolve 10 pounds of granulated cane sugar. Add 1 cup of bakers yeast softened in a cup of luke warm water and 1 level teaspoon of fertilizer such as Calgon.

Allow the mash to ferment at about 78⁰F. for fourteen days or until the fermentation stops. Provide for the release of CO2 gas and keep air out. Let the mash stand until clear of sediment and siphon or decant. It is now ready for distillation. Yield: 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of 190 proof alcohol.

Wine yeast may be used in place of common bakers yeast. When you make your own wine, decant the fluid just before fermentation stops and save the sediment; however, strain any course fruit, etc. Store the sediment or 'wine yeast' in the refrigerator. When you make your basic mash use this sediment in lieu of the bakers yeast.

Wine yeast has developed a greater tolerance for alcohol than the common bakers yeast it was. As wine yeast reproduces during fermentation in your basic mash, it will yield as much as 50% more alcohol content than the common bakers yeast could have.

Simple Syrup

Bring to a boil 3 cups of sugar dissolved in 2 cups of water; cool.

Any Grain Alcohol (using Fioretti Flavors)

• 1 pint 190 proof
• 1 pint water
• 21 drops any flavor, such as Bourbon,Cognac, Rum, etc.(except only 3 drops Gin Flavor)

Dissolve flavoring in alcohol, add water and shake well. One teaspoon of chemically pure glycerine may be added to one quart of prepared beverage producing a smoother liquor.

Vodka

• Pour 110 proof into Vodka bottle.

Apple Brandy

• Add 1 pound of dried apples to 2 quarts of 100 proof; let stand 2 days then strain.

Aging